After the big breakup known as the Velvet Divorce, Slovak beers were rarely seen in this half of the former Czechoslovakia, and the old Czech prime minister once commented that Slovak brews weren’t even fit for cleaning teeth. So it seems meaningful that Slovak beers have started appearing in Prague recently, from Kaltenecker’s ginger and dark lagers at the Christmas Beer Markets to the bottles of Steiger popping up at Pivovarský klub.

These bottles, however, are not intended for Slovakia’s former federal partners here in the Czech Republic, but instead are designed to entice customers in the German-speaking markets. (Yes, that is a scratch-off bra and panties covering the model on Steiger’s “Premium Helles,” or světlý ležák to you and me. Lest you think that they’re playing upon Slavic stereotypes, not all of the labels feature blondes — there’s at least one redhead.)

Other than the label, this beer is not particularly remarkable: less hoppy and malty than most examples from this side of the border. However, Steiger’s dark lager — currently on draft at Pivovarský klub — is more noteworthy. Brewed at 11°, it falls more on the side of cola than coffee: a clear deep amber, sugary and slightly gingery with a long, toffee finish. It would probably pair well with braised meats, stewed fruits or a rich, soft cheese.

But when it comes to interesting beers from Slovakia, Kaltenecker must take the cake, putting out a variety of unusual brews, including an IPA (a rarity in these parts). A light amber brewed at 14° with Challenger and Styrian Goldings hops and both wheat and oat adjuncts, Kaltenecker’s IPA clocks in at 6% ABV. Tasting it this morning, I was surprised by the rich hop aromatics coming out of the bottle, a one-liter PET.

It might not inspire any sonnets — nor any haiku — but Kaltenecker’s IPA is one Slovak beer that can get attention without resorting to a blue label. Forget what the former prime minister said: any beer lover would be honored to brush his teeth with it.

It’s plenty nice to drink, too.

In Central Europe, Slovakia is known for its wine rather than its beers, so one of the cool surprises at Prague’s Christmas Beer Markets was the appearance by Pivovar Kaltenecker, a brewery way out in Rožňava. When I visited Kaltenecker’s kiosk at the markets, I ordered a glass of their Kras ginger-honey lager. Even more surprising than the sudden appearance of a Slovak beer in the Czech capital: I didn’t like it much at all.

Okay, so maybe this wasn’t so surprising. In the Czech Republic, I had trouble getting into the ginger lager from Hodonín’s Pivovar Kunc, and Kaltenecker’s version had about the same appeal for me. Beer has obviously been brewed with ginger for a long time, so I understand the historical interest. But perhaps there is a reason why so few real ginger beers are made today.

In any case, the thought of that ginger-honey lager left me slightly skeptical when I later saw Kaltenecker’s Brokát dark lager (above) on draft at Pivovarský klub. Skeptical, but still curious, so I ordered a small glass.

Kaltenecker Brokát Dark (5% ABV). Pours a clear deep amber, nearly black, with a thick, long-lasting sandy head, a strong coffee nose and a light toastiness. In the mouth, a rich malt body with very moderate carbonation and a bitter chocolate finish. Moccalike. A surprisingly nice balance of bitter and sweet.

Perhaps the ginger-honey taste was just not for me — I’m certainly impressed enough by the Brokát to try more beers from Kaltenecker in the future, to say nothing of heading out that way once things warm up a bit. In addition to the dark Brokát brewed at 13°, Kaltenecker’s web site also lists a half-dark Brokát premium, brewed at 16° and finishing with a thundering 8.1% ABV, as well as a wheat beer and an unfiltered golden lager.

Incidentally, if you’re at Pivovarský klub in the next couple of days, keep an eye out for the dark 13° Troobacz from Městský pivovar Štramberk, without a doubt one of the best dark lagers in the country. (It was listed as “Trubač” on my recent visit to Pivovarský klub, but I believe the brewery uses that name for its golden lager, and “Troobacz” for the dark.) Located in the hilltop fortress town of Štramberk, the brewery has its own hotel and is highly recommended for a travel destination, but more on that another time.

I’ll leave you with a shot of Sporťák, our old Škoda 120L, in front of Pivovar Štramberk, one of my favorite memories from the guidebook.