After the big breakup known as the Velvet Divorce, Slovak beers were rarely seen in this half of the former Czechoslovakia, and the old Czech prime minister once commented that Slovak brews weren’t even fit for cleaning teeth. So it seems meaningful that Slovak beers have started appearing in Prague recently, from Kaltenecker’s ginger and dark lagers at the Christmas Beer Markets to the bottles of Steiger popping up at Pivovarský klub.

These bottles, however, are not intended for Slovakia’s former federal partners here in the Czech Republic, but instead are designed to entice customers in the German-speaking markets. (Yes, that is a scratch-off bra and panties covering the model on Steiger’s “Premium Helles,” or světlý ležák to you and me. Lest you think that they’re playing upon Slavic stereotypes, not all of the labels feature blondes — there’s at least one redhead.)

Other than the label, this beer is not particularly remarkable: less hoppy and malty than most examples from this side of the border. However, Steiger’s dark lager — currently on draft at Pivovarský klub — is more noteworthy. Brewed at 11°, it falls more on the side of cola than coffee: a clear deep amber, sugary and slightly gingery with a long, toffee finish. It would probably pair well with braised meats, stewed fruits or a rich, soft cheese.

But when it comes to interesting beers from Slovakia, Kaltenecker must take the cake, putting out a variety of unusual brews, including an IPA (a rarity in these parts). A light amber brewed at 14° with Challenger and Styrian Goldings hops and both wheat and oat adjuncts, Kaltenecker’s IPA clocks in at 6% ABV. Tasting it this morning, I was surprised by the rich hop aromatics coming out of the bottle, a one-liter PET.

It might not inspire any sonnets — nor any haiku — but Kaltenecker’s IPA is one Slovak beer that can get attention without resorting to a blue label. Forget what the former prime minister said: any beer lover would be honored to brush his teeth with it.

It’s plenty nice to drink, too.

If you missed the Prague Christmas Beer Markets, you missed out on more than just outstanding brews — you also didn’t hear the news. For starters, there was the announcement of the forthcoming brewery at the eastern edge of Ústecký kraj, north of Prague and very near the German and Polish borders. Set to take off in early 2008, Pivovar Kocour Varnsdorf will brew classic Czech lagers as well as several top-fermenting beers, including an English pale ale, an IPA and a Rauchweizen.

This marks the arrival of more than just another outstanding Czech microbrewery (and no, it’s not a brewpub — these beers should actually be distributed well beyond where they’re made, at least in kegs). Continuing the ever-greater variety in Czech brewing, Kocour is in the possession of several oak casks from Hungary and is planning to age some of its beers in wood, reminiscent of U Medvídků’s excellent oak-aged lagers and the popular oaked ales from Innis & Gunn.

The market also featured a début from the new Pivovar Hradec Králové: the outstanding Patriot kvasnicový ležák (4.6%), a picture-perfect yeast beer — light gold with extremely mild carbonation and a creamy, smooth mouthfeel and notes of vanilla and grassy hops in the finish. For the time being, Patriot appears to be brewed at Pivovar Žamberk, though in the near future it should (hopefully?) move back to its hometown in a new location. The town’s former brewery, long closed, has been recently reconstructed, reappearing as a set of modern flats and offices.

Ironically, that old brewery building is also the new site for Hradec Králové’s Pivovar Rambousek, the maker of a heart-stopping, half-dark, chestnut-honey lager that defies description in anything but the language of angels. In case you missed the earlier news, consider yourself ahead of the curve on this one: Rambousek’s web page says they look forward to welcoming guests in 2008.